Roci and I – Oh là là French Canada!

Je me souviens! I remember!
The Quebec province’s motto is very apropos, although not intended in this way. I will always remember how beautiful this part of Canada is. While passing through Vermont I thought this is a place I need to come back to, as it’s gorgeous. After passing into Quebec from Vermont, and starting to drive on the coast, I realized Quebec is mesmerizing. I’m running quickly out of adjectives, and words cannot describe how beautiful the Quebec coast is. And talking about the border crossing, the one that leads directly-ish into Quebec City is very small and at least for me on a Saturday morning was a breeze to cross through. Think about Tijuana border crossing back into San Diego if you don’t have Global Pass or equivalent. Then think the opposite, and you just imagined the Quebec border crossing. The Canadian officer asked me quite a few questions, and I was starting to think that shaving in the morning didn’t made me look less suspicious. He asked when have I been to Canada before, and after I said just a few days ago, he got really interested in talking to me. Much later I figured out that I’ve exhibited the mule behavior (or maybe my personality was magnetic?)

The mule – great movie, btw. The officer eventually relented when he realized I’m just a clueless tourist, and when I said I’ll drive Trans Quebec, and the up to Newfoundland, etc. in Roci, he started to smile. Not entirely sure why… Anyways, this is by far the longest dialogue I’ve had with a border officer, beating even the time we’ve got pulled for searching while coming back from Mexico (for whatever unfathomable reason, border guards do not like jokes, especially when you have a Russian accent).

As one picture is worth 1000 words, here are a few shots from this Sunday morning (9/29/24) drive.

And since I haven’t posted anything in a bit, here’s some older content.

Starting with another cultural attempt, which IMHO was more miss than hit. An entire exhibition in the Museum of the Civilization was dedicated to various types of fights. Although I’m pretty much a fan of André the Giant, the exhibition was meh at most.

I thought from now on everything else will be better. Nope. The fights section was better than most everything else.
Some parts that shall rename unnamed were terrible, and in one particular case, the three women attending one exhibition practically excused for its content.

I did find an interesting bit:

Of course it’s not Brian’s… but I thought it was an interesting design, très français.

I’ve been to Quebec City earlier this year with my favorite son, Geo. However, being on a day trip from Montreal, we couldn’t explore as much as I was able to this time. Quebec City is a gorgeous place, and IMHO is way nicer than Montreal.

Now tell me if this Chateau/hotel overlooking the St Lawrence river is not one of the most romantic places in North America (of course, there’s always Paris).

Needless to say, Roci and I did not stay here. We’ve reserved our moolah for Premium gas and French onion soup. I think you can guess who’s getting what here…

And I recommend also the river cruise, with a bit of history thrown in for good measure (by a tour guide speaking perfect English and what seems to me perfect Quebecoise).

It’s Sunday night in Baie-Comeau, and tomorrow morning Roci and I will embark on “La piece de resistance” – the QC 389 aka Trans Quebec.

The plan is to stay in Relais Gabriel, or perhaps in Station Uapishka if my French was not good enough to make a proper reservation. We will see.

After two days I will be in Labrador City (if the gravel portions of 389 will not be too much for Roci), and will have cellular signal again. I shall test my Zoleo satellite messaging device. I may even go fishing… that’s a definite maybe… Roci and I can’t wait for La grande aventure 😜.

Cheers until then!

…and in the infamous words of Russel Case, “I’m baaaack!”

It’s October 1st, a day of some significance. Today’s the first day of the new U.S. budget!

And after this public announcement, let’s get back to the trip.

Continuing into the north of Quebec (up to Oct 1st morning hours).

Arrived in Baie-Comeau with no incident, and Roci is purring like a kitten. The new tires are practically made for the car. Already recommended these tires to my favorite son, Andrei, as he lives in England and apparently is cold and icy there. I always thought it just rains. Go figure…

Going on a slight tangent, I did a lot of YouTube research on tires and how to repair them. If you want to know more about why I picked the Michelin Pilot Sport 4 All Season, watch this video.

According to the world renowned tire expert and subsequently my best friend, Radu, the Michelin CrossClimate2 are the best. And if you watched the above mentioned video, those guys concur. CC2’s are better in wet and snow than PS4AS. But, me, being me, and going back to the Shallow Hal analogy, I went by the looks. And to me, the PS4AS look way prettier than CC2. And that’s that.

Tire related, if you want to know how to patch a tire and with what, watch this video. 

How did the world revolved around its axis before YouTube?!?

Another car-related tangent: Andrei is telling me he’s tempted by some Mini Morris made for/after the “Italian job” with Michael Caine (love the guy!). And what a classic movie. Although I liked the version with Charlize Theron, too. But, put her in any movie, and I’ll probably like it (case in point, AeonFlux). 

So this could be my next European vacation vehicle? See Europe, especially the bits I haven’t already (plus Pompeii and Firenze), in a Mini. Not sure I can fit in it though. I’m however pretty sure the Mini could fit in Roci’s trunk😜.

Baie-Comeau is kinda what I’ve expected, just a stop on the way to QC 389. I went for a long walk the evening I was there, and it was pretty, but there are way prettier parts of Quebecs (no offence!)

On the shore/park walk, I found this interesting display of painted rocks that stretched for several kilometers. It’s one of the most moving things I’ve seen in a while. Hugo, an 8 year old boy is fighting cancer, and this rock display is a tribute to his fight by a huge number of kids. Beautiful.

So this Monday morning I started bright and early from Le Grand Hotel in Baie-Comeau, with a chat with Radu and a hearty Timatin sandwich from Tim Horton’s. Plus a good black coffee. 

The first part on QC 389 is perfect. It made me think that while Roci is supremely comfortable and quite agile for such a big car, I would love to drive one of my other prized possessions, Baby and Giulia. 

Good thing I had neither with me, as the temptation to drive fast on the undulating and curving road is overwhelming. Roci is a Grand Tourer, and the best way I’d describe her driving style on the curving and undulating road is that of the tiger getting close to the ground as it approaches its prey. I am falling for this car, and I’ll confess, keeping her showed exquisite taste in cars (not talking about myself).

Roughly half of the 300 km between Baie-Comeau and Relais Gabriel are asphalt (some portions great, some good) and half is gravel. 

I started cautiously, as the entire 300 km road is not covered by cell phone service, and I didn’t want to do anything too stupid. 

As I’ve never been known for my patience, I went a bit faster eventually, and I can neither confirm, nor deny that triple digits speed was attained on gravel.

And this next picture showcases some donuts that probably were there before I arrived. 

Having no cell service didn’t bother me at all (funny, as I thought this will be a big deal). What stressed me a bit on the gravel portions were the big trucks driving at high speed and throwing rocks and dust all over the road. Upon encountering one, I’ve always slowed down and went as much to the right as I could (not politically-speaking), but I’ve ‘manifested’ exactly what I was afraid of. Got a huge-ass rock that hit my windshield at high speed. I swear I saw the damn thing coming at me as in slow-motion, and I could do nothing. I think the Audi designers that came out with the D2 A8/S8 series worked before on the Leopard 2 tanks, as Roci is built like one. Although way more agile. I think, as I never driven an L2. Wehrmacht, I would like to drive one – what do you guys think about a roadtrip in an L2 to France? Not a great idea you say?!?

The windshield broke the rock in pieces upon impact, and it only got 3 small scratches. Amazing. There is no way in hell any other car windshield would have taken that bloody boulder and not cracked or shattered entirely. This next pic shows the top of the driver’s window. 

As you can see, the Leopard 2 guys did a double walled glass. I bet that’ll withstand a 22 cal bullet to the head. Only when the window is up, however. 

OK, I’ll stop complaining the insulation and the thick windows in this car prevent you from hearing that glorious engine. Maybe.

Quebec continued to be its gorgeous self, and here is proof. I swear I can’t take a good pic to save my life, and the reality is waaaay prettier.

For the record, my pics look like crap compared with the actual place…

Fun fact. QC 389 doesn’t have an Ikea store, but high quality furniture can be found literally on the side of the road.

Please note the exquisite patina on these classic pieces, as Roci is pointing to with her headlights.

Upon arrival in Relais Gabriel, I was listening to my new fave Najoua Belyzel (although Mylene Farmer will always be le numero un pour moi). Of course, Najoua was singing “Gabriel.” 

Alas, Pourvoire Relais Gabriel is a bit dumpy, and I shouldn’t have paid the asking price (three times the website price, although probably not updated since the early 1900’s). Not sure what the hell I was thinking 🤔…

Behold my magnifique room and lose yourself in wonder!

If I’d say how much I paid for this glorified closet, you wouldn’t believe me. Saving grace: it was very clean. And I slept like shit, noise galore, truckers leaving at 5 am and my bed woke me up every time I turned. It sounded like an elephant dressed up in tight latex is moving in a quiet library.

At least I felt safe as I had a truck full of dynamite 10 meters away. Maybe 12 meters.

I’ve heard dynamite is extremely stable, up until it explodes.

As you also see from the pic, Roci is feeling at home in between work trucks.

And talking about trucks, she never misses a chance to make new friends. Here’s her, chatting with a Montreal-Labrador route truck. Her mighty V8 was inaudible next to the truck’s engine, so it might’ve been an electric car…

There are no coincidences. Thanks to me being stupid and not driving another 10 mins to check Station Uapishka accommodations first, and paying the most ever I paid for a hotel room in this trip, two things have happened.

1. I’ve met the nicest Canadian family ever. Helene Geoffroy heard me exercising my perfect French (far from it) and she offered assistance. She and her husband and daughter gave me invaluable advice on what to see (and what not, so sayonara Cartwright!). Added a couple of stops in the recommended places. Helene, if you and your family find yourselves in San Diego, please contact me, and I’ll return the favor!
2. Started to read a gifted book that I thought I’ll never get to it (and no, it’s not SF).

On #2, it helped that the internet at Relais Gabriel is shit. Dial-up would be better, as this particular internet flavor is probably based on bits and bytes going out by way of smoke signals. Or penguins (my word for pigeons and any other bird).

After getting the room at Relais Gabriel, I went to Station Uapishka and boy, I felt like a complete tool. The Noorvik cabin I rented there for next night is on the lake, and I’ll have pics soon. Hiked around the huge lake, and had it all to myself! I guess Monday afternoons are not heavy traffic times at the lake…

This lake is actually part of the huge Eye of Quebec (lake Manicouagan), and did not realize that until looking at the map!

And one last pic for now, as I finish writing this… view from the chaise-longue on the porch of Station Uapishka, with the coffee. When handed the coffee, I scored big with my statement of “vous sauvez ma vie.”

Few more Roci pics:

Tangent time: in my YouTube search I’ve done for the above notes, I found a funny video I really liked. Has obviously nothing to do with anything I’ve been writing about. Enjoy!

Tuesday evening update… Station Uapishka seems to be active with paranormal and possibly alien phenomenons…

Here’s proof #1:

and proof #2:

Bonne nuit pour aujourd’hui😀.

And fast forward to Oct 2nd…

Yesterday I took the day off from traveling, and I just walked around the lake (Eye of Quebec) and relaxed. Finished a book, quite good. And relaxed some more.

Folks at the Station Uapishka are nice. They however destroyed my superiority complex on speaking French. Apparently diner is not equivalent to dinner, as I assumed. They did figure it out for me, and since then I completed any French request in English. Less mistakes so…

Bought the crew there a beer, as they were very nice. Spoke at length with the cook, nice guy, and also I learned how to say hello in the First Nation language from a nice young woman that also helped me with my French. I promptly forgot the First Nation greeting.

This is me taking is real-easy at the lake, in front of the cabin, and with Roci subliminally transmitting thoughts of “let’s do some driving, you lazy ass.”

Subliminal doesn’t work with me…

And no, I did not make a fire. I’m way too lazy for that.

Since I’ve read a philosophical life book today, how about this?

Isn’t this a perfect analogy for life? You’re going on a clear path, and just beyond the horizon, you have no idea what expects you. Maybe the road will continue straight after a small dip as you’d normally expect, but maybe it’ll sharply veer. And look at the clouds… dark and heavy, but somehow at the horizon line things look better. Kinda like life, isn’t it?

Note: sometimes I’m amazed by my philosophical depth… 😜

As promised, more about the cabin. It’s a really coquette tiny house, with an mezzanine/upstairs bed. More on that in a bit. Has a shower, and something akin to a micro-kitchen (didn’t care) and a shower (cared a lot).

No bathroom, however. The main building is 4 mins walk, and at night is kinda too cold, dark and annoying to walk, so use your imagination😜.

And while this looks romantic to me and really liked the layout, it’s a tad impractical. Climbing down at 4 AM to pee is mightily annoying (this is where your imagining should have clicked in). And I hit my head on the very low ceiling quite a few times, but since it’s wood, it was wood on wood (not sure if this translates well).

All things considered, humongous improvement over the Relais Gabriel.
The dinner celebrating the new U.S. budget was very good, and I was stuffed when the nice woman brings me a huge piece of pie. Of course, I’m very polite, and my mother always said I need to finish my food on the plate. Which I promptly did. Good pie!

And this morning, after the requisite cold shower* I took another long walk, after waking up with probably 10+ hours under my belt. Or belly?

*Cold shower – this tiny house is ecological and all was solar powered. Which means when I took my night shower it was cold as f..k, and this morning it was cold-ish. Apparently solar means only when there’s sun. Go figure…

Talking about cold showers, my mivoks went internal as if I was Scarran (hope you get the Farscape slang…).

I’ve already disclosed there are paranormal phenomena at Station Uapishka. Here’s another example of an alien object:

It’s an alien ship that crash landed here eons ago, and probably shrunk a lot due to humidity:

Staying in tune with my scientific discoveries, I went outside the cabin at 10 PM to se the stars and maybe get real lucky and catch a glimpse of Aurora Borealis. The Northern Lights were completely missing in action (my app said 2% chance to see it that evening). The stars were great due to very low light pollution, and you could see a bit the center of the Milky Way. My scientific curiosity lost very quickly the battle with the cold, and I went to bed. I took a lot of pictures, and they all were consistent. They look like shit.

Which brings me to today, the second day of October, Anno Domini 2024.

I’ll say, I’ve never had this much fun with my pants on in a very long time.

Roci is fuckin’ amazing! I’ve always loved my rear wheel drive cars, and pooh-poohed at AWD cars, even when having my ass handed over by a race prep’ed Mitsubishi Evo at Streets of Willow (with Baby, my Honda S2000). Anyhow, driving the Quattro on gravel and sand, and probing its uncanny ability to hold the line while drifting is amazing. Not to worry, I did the drifting on the side of the road, in a couple of areas where there was enough space for me to go stupid, without bad consequences. Minimal drifting on the road, as I’ve got cold feet (even when sweating, lol). It’s a sweetheart of a car, and it’s so much easier to drift than the S2000… the control is amazing. And as I said, I didn’t do it much on the road, as I was too scared I’ll mess a corner and one of the huge trucks going high speed will prematurely put an end to my road trip.

I’ll try to download some videos with the big trucks tomorrow, as I forgot about it today. Now I’m too fat (will explain), and too lazy. And did I mention is effin cold here?
Note to self: need to find a way to drift Roci on snow, in a controlled environment.

And another beautiful scenery on the side of the road:

I think I’ve missed this pic, so I’m inserting it now (as in later):

When the last part of QC 389 transforms itself in 500 (Trans Labrador), the road has a perfect asphalt surface. I went an itsy bitsy tiny bit over the speed limit. Roci is unflappable. It tracks perfectly. The new tires and the alignment helped, but man this car is solid, pure Autobahn material.

After such a fun-fun-fun day, I went to a 4.7 star rated bbq house close to my hotel. Baba Q’s Smoke & Grill is at least a 4.8 IMHO.

I went thinking I’ll get something light, maybe a salad. But, people here are very nice and friendly, and they tend to recommend things. And this is the result:

To the left, cut from the picture, is a little tray with veggies, so I can claim it was all salad. And this was after a really good French onion soup. Very tasty, and the most cheese I’ve ever had in a soup. Yum.

I polished everything. And in case you wonder: yes, I have self control, but I choose not to exercise it.

As I finished everything (remember what mom told me? So it’s her fault), this is me now (I shaved, hence I look a bit different):

Thank you Greg, for the food recommendations and especially for the Labrador and Newfoundland advice. If you’re in San Diego, ping me and I’ll make sure I recommend something as filling as what I had tonight😜. It was great meeting you!

I’m writing this from a hotel in Labrador City, so this will conclude the Quebec / French Canada part of my travel blog and switch to Labrador (which the last bit is of course part of… Merde!).

I love Quebec! And now onto Oh, Canada, the English speaking kind!